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Brick Lane: alla scoperta dell’East End di Londra
22 June 2015
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Brick Lane e’ il cuore vibrante, alternativo e creativo di Londra.

In questo piccolo angolo dell’East End ho riscoperto quella parte di citta’ dall’animo ribelle e anticonformista, un po’ punk rock, dove chiunque puo’ sentirsi a proprio agio, dove si incontrano e si mescolano culture ed etnie differenti, dallo spirito street e unconventional. E me ne sono innamorata come non mi era mai capitato con nessun altro luogo della City.

Brick Lane si trova nell’ex area industriale – nel quartiere Tower Hamlets, a nord del Tamigi – ed e’ una via lunga circa 1 km costeggiata da cimeli architettonici del XVIII secolo (principalmente fornaci in cui venivano cotti mattoni – da qui ovviamente il nome Brick) oggi restaurati e adibiti a deliziose boutique di abiti vintage, gallerie d’arte, negozi eccentrici, localini underground e ristoranti etnici.

In passato il quartiere era noto per l’alto tasso di poverta’ e criminalita’. E’ proprio nelle sue vie che nel 1888 vennero uccise cinque prostitute ad opera del celeberrimo Jack Lo Squartatore.

Nella seconda meta’ del Novecento l’intera area vide una consistente ondata migratoria di popolazione bengalese, tanto da essere tutt’oggi ancora identificata con il soprannome di Banglatown. Noterete infatti che i nomi delle vie sono scritte in inglese e bengalese e che, arrivando da sud, dalla fermata della metro Aldgate East, sono innumerevoli i ristoranti con cucina tipica del Bangladesh, con quell’inconfondibile profumo di curry e spezie orientali.

Ma sarebbe davvero riduttivo attribuire confini cosi’ marcati.

Negli ultimi vent’anni infatti Brick Lane, come una gigantesca calamita culturale, ha attirato centinaia di universitari, artisti, pittori e musicisti, grazie soprattutto ai costi contenuti degli affitti, pur trovandosi a pochi passi dal centro.
Cio’ ha fortemente migliorato il clima del quartiere e l’ha trasformato da area periferica e poco raccomandabile in vero e proprio hub londinese.

STREET ART

Brick Lane e’ uno dei piu’ noti centri mondiali della street art, con murales e graffiti spesso piu’ simili a vere e proprie opere d’arte e che davvero hanno poco da invidiare a quelle esposte al Tate Modern.
ROA, Banksy e D*Face sono solo alcuni degli artisti di fama internazionale che con i loro capolavori interpretano sapientemente gli spazi urbani e donano colore e dinamismo alle strade del quartiere, sempre in movimento e sempre in continua evoluzione, in linea con lo spirito della citta’. Capita di passare per la medesima via da un giorno all’altro e ritrovarla completamente cambiata!

OLD TRUMAN’S BREWERY

Spicca maestosa sull’intera area la ciminiera del vecchio Birrificio Truman, uno dei piu’ grandi del mondo alla fine del 19esimo secolo. Chiuso nel 1989, attualmente e’ sede di gallerie d’arte, spazi multiculturali, mercatini delle pulci e stand gastronomici.

CAFE’ E LOCALI

Uno dei cafe’ imperdibili se vi trovate a passeggiare lungo Brick Lane e’ il Cereal Killer Cafe’, specializzato nella vendita di oltre 100 tipi diversi di cereali provenienti da tutto il mondo, abbinabili a circa 30 tipologie di latte e 20 guarnizioni. L’ambiente e’ molto piccolo ma straboccante di coloratissime confezioni di cereali, alcune delle quali mi hanno detto essere dei veri e propri pezzi da collezione!

Il Ten Bells e’ un pub/taverna storica in stile vittoriano risalente al 18esimo secolo e associato alle macabre vicende di Jack lo Squartatore. Sembra infatti che due delle sue vittime, Annie Chapman e Mary Jane Kelly, fossero solite frequentare il locale e si dice che la prima vi abbia bevuto un drink poco prima di essere uccisa.

Aperto 24h su 24, a Beigel Bakery si trovano i bagel piu’ buoni di tutta Londra. Salmone e formaggio o carne salata e mostarda sono le specialita’ della casa e hanno trasformato questo semplice locale in una mecca culinaria non solo per i londinesi ma anche per i foodie di tutto il mondo, al costo di un paio di sterline.

Naturalmente, non potete visitare Banglatown senza fermarvi in una delle sue curry houses e assaporare qualche piatto tipico indiano. La maggior parte di questi ristoranti abbraccia la filosofia BYOB, acronimo che sta per Bring Your Own Bottle: non vengono serviti alcolici, ma i clienti possono portarsi da casa la propria bottiglia di vino o birra.

La sera c’e’ l’imbarazzo della scelta: dalla musica eclettica e i cocktail innovativi dell’Apples and Pears, alla musica indie ed elettronica live del 93 Feet East, una vera e propria istituzione musicale, dove hanno suonato Kaiser Chiefs, Radiohead e White Stripes. Da non perdere il Village Underground, un ex magazzino trasformato in centro culturale con concerti, mostre ed eventi, sul cui rooftop si trovano quattro carrozze metropolitane in disuso completamente ricoperte di graffiti.

MARKET

Londra ha sempre fatto rima con shopping e se vi piace il vintage o semplicemente curiosare alla ricerca di qualche cianfrusaglia antica Brick Lane e’ il posto che fa per voi, specialmente la domenica.

Da Liverpool Station il primo mercato che si raggiunge e’ il famoso Old Spitafields Market, al coperto e risalente all’epoca vittoriana, in cui si puo’ trovare di tutto: abiti, gioielli, vinili usati (il secondo sabato di ogni mese e il primo e terzo venerdí del mese si svolge una fiera dedicata ai dischi e ai vinili), oggetti di design, opere d’arte.

Nel cuore del quartiere si tiene invece il Brick Lane Market o Sunday UpMarket, all’interno della Old Truman’s Brewery. La parte iniziale e’ completamente dedicata allo street food con stand economicissimi che spaziano dal thai, al cinese, al vegetariano, alla pizza. All’interno dell’edificio si trovano le aree dedicate all’abbigliamento vintage, all’oggettistica (la maggior parte fabbricata a mano dagli stessi venditori), alle anticaglie e a qualsiasi altra cosa riusciate a immaginare…si trovano anche stand che vendono oggeti smarriti e scarpe non appaiate! Insomma un mercato in perfetto stile East End, hipster, frenetico e variegato che secondo molti rappresenta un’ottima alternativa a Covent Garden.

Camminando fino all’estremita’ settentrionale di Brick Lane, all’incrocio con Columbia Road, si trova uno dei mercati piu’ amati dai londinesi: il Columbia Road Flower Market, una vera e propria oasi verde con migliaia di fiori, piante e germogli.

MOSCHEA

La London Jamme Masjid, la moschea all’angolo con Fournier Street, e’ molto interessante poiche’ simboleggia al meglio quell’incontro e succedersi  di culture diverse che tanto caratterizza Brick Lane.

Prima di diventare luogo di culto islamico, e’ stata infatti sinagoga e prima ancora chiesa cristiana, espressione quindi delle tre ondate migratorie che si sono avvicendate nel corso del tempo.

L’edificio nasce nel 1743 come chiesa protestante ad opera degli ugonotti fuggiti dalla Francia e dalle persecuzioni dei Cattolici. Nel 19esimo secolo venne convertita in sinagoga a causa di una sempre piu’ numerosa comunita’ ebraica, fuggita dalla Russia e dall’Europa Centrale. Negli anni ’70 rinasce a nuova vita come moschea per servire la comunita’ bengalese.

Ecco, se vi va di visitare una Londra un po’ piu’ insolita e anticonformista concedetevi una bella passeggiata lungo Brick Lane.

Qui, lontani dai grattacieli, dai grandi musei e monumenti del centro e lontani dalla raffinatezza del West End, troverete un quartiere modesto (anche un po’ sporco se vogliamo dirla tutta) ma arricchito dalle diversita’ culturali che si sono sedimentate negli anni, creativo, dinamico e sempre in continua evoluzione…perche’, come scrisse il buon Corrado Augias ne I segreti di Londra: “Chi vuole davvero conoscere Londra dovrebbe cominciare dall’East Side”.

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There are 189 comments

  • Francesca says:

    Questo post su Brick Lane mi è piaciuto tantissimo!
    Sarà che con l’East End ho un legame particolare perché ci ho vissuto, quindi non potrei essere più d’accordo con te e Augias: chi vuole davvero conoscere Londra dovrebbe cominciare dall’East Side.
    In fin dei conti i cockneys vengono da qui, no?

    • Veronica says:

      Grazie Francesca!! Chissa’ che bella esperienza vivere in un posto cosi’ stimolante! L’ho trovato davvero un quartiere molto rappresentativo dello spirito di Londra, semplice ma autentico!!

  • Quante cose che ho ancora da vedere a Londra, purtroppo ci sono andata due volte ma sempre toccata e fuga nel week-end, e qui mi piacerebbe davvero scovare un’anima diversa (e assaggiare i tanti cereali eheh). Grazie per questo ottimo post. Buoni Viaggi! Monica

    • Veronica says:

      Allora la prossima volta dovrai per forza fermarti a Brick Lane, magari la domenica che ci sono i mercatini e per una tazza di latte e cereali! 😉

  • Sabrina says:

    Che bel post, non ho mai visitato quella parte di Londra. Questo mi spinge ad esplorare di più città la prossima volta che avrò l’occasione di visitarla 😉

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