L’idea che quelle pietre siano state piantate li’ migliaia di anni fa dai nostri antenati ha qualcosa di incredibilmente sorprendente e magnetico.
Pensate soltanto che il terrapieno circolare (la parte piu’ esterna del sito) venne edificato gia’ nel 3000 a.C.…no dico, stiamo parlando di 5000 anni fa!!! I pesanti megaliti vennero portati qui 500 anni dopo e disposti in forme circolari e a ferro di cavallo.
L’intero complesso archeologico venne dichiarato patrimonio dell’UNESCO nel 1986 ed e’ facilmente raggiungibile in auto da Londra. E’ collocato nel bel mezzo della vasta distesa erbosa di Salisbury, nella regione dello Wiltshire, isolato e talmente imponente da essere visibile gia’ a chilometri di distanza, creando sempre un traffico non indifferente sulla A303, la strada che gli scorre accanto.
I TRE ENIGMI
Stonehenge e’ probabilmente uno dei piu’ emblematici monumenti del passato, che ha suscitato numerosi interrogativi, molti dei quali, nonostante le avanzate tecnologie, rimangono irrisolti.
-
I megaliti piu’ grandi raggiungono il peso di 35 tonnellate e sono costituiti dalla sarsen, un tipo di arenaria che si trova solo a 30 km a nord di Stonehenge, mentre le pietre piu’ piccole, chiamate collettivamente “blu”, provengono da una zona situata a oltre 240 km dal sito.
Come hanno fatto a trasportare le pietre fino all’attuale piana?
Le sarsen piu’ grandi e piu’ vicine furono quasi certamente trascinate sopra ad una slitta di legno da piu’ di 200 persone, ma le pietre blu? Come hanno fatto a compiere un’impresa cosi’ complessa con tecnologie rudimentali? -
Una differenza notevole tra Stonehenge e altri cromlech del medesimo periodo e’ che i megaliti di Salisbury furono finemente intagliati per ottenere blocchi rettangolari, poi disposti in strutture architettoniche complesse.
Per quale motivo venne data cosi’ tanta attenzione alla sua costruzione? Cosa lo rendeva speciale? -
Stonehenge e’ inoltre allineato sull’asse che collega il punto in cui sorge il sole nel solstizio d’estate con quello in cui tramonta nel solstizio invernale e che congiunge idealmente i due punti a 180 gradi di distanza sull’orizzonte.
Qual’era la vera funzione dell’intero sito?
IPOTESI
Dai reperti umani ritrovati all’interno delle buche di Aubrey (si tratta di una serie di 56 buche disposte in circolo all’interno del terrapieno) e del fossato sembra che nelle prime fasi della sua esistenza Stonehenge fosse un cimitero.
Tutto cambio’ quando nel 2500 a.C. vennero erette sul terreno le enormi pietre che vediamo oggi.
Secondo molti il motivo che spinse gli uomini del Neolitico, legati alla terra e ai suoi frutti, a costruire un’opera cosi’ complessa puo’ essere ricondotto alle necessita’ pratiche della comunita’ preistorica.
L’inverno era infatti la stagione piu’ temuta mentre l’estate era il periodo del raccolto e dell’abbondanza: Stonehenge puo’ essere allora stato creato per tracciare il cambiamento delle stagioni, come una sorta di osservatorio astronomico o calendario pesante centinaia di tonnellate.
Secondo altri la motivazione e’ prettamente divinatoria: Stonehenge rappresentava un luogo sacro in cui venivano svolte cerimonie e si veneravano le divinita’.
C’e’ poi tutta una serie di ipotesi decisamente meno plausibili ma sicuramente fantasiose.
Alcuni sostengono che la nascita del cromlech sia attribuibile a mago Merlino, altri ritengono che Stonehenge fosse un tempio druido (i sacerdoti pagani dell’eta’ del ferro), mentre le ipotesi piu’ bizzarre portano direttamente agli alieni.
Interessante e’ sicuramente il fatto che tutt’oggi enormi folle di seguaci di culti neopagani, come il Celtismo e la Wicca, vi si rechino in pellegrinaggio, specie durante i solstizi.
VILLAGGIO NEOLITICO
Una parte molto interessante della visita al sito e’ il villaggio neolitico, posto all’ingresso dell’area, proprio dietro al visitor center, e che ripropone una replica perfetta della vita quotidiana degli uomini che lavorarono alla costruzione di Stonehenge, con le abitazioni, gli attrezzi e le ceramiche di un tempo.
NELLE VICINANZE: WOODHENGE
A pochi chilometri dalla piana di Salisbury si trova un altro circolo neolitico (risalente al 2500 a.C.) noto come Woodhenge, costituito da sei anelli concentrici di buche in cui originariamente erano incastonati alti pali di legno (oggi le buche sono state colmate da piccole colonne di cemento colorate).
Inquietante e’ il ritrovamento di una tomba al centro del sito contenente lo scheletro di un bambino.
L’accesso a Woodhenge e’ libero, senza costi d’ingresso e con praticamente nessun turista nei paraggi, lasciandovi liberi di passeggiare al suo interno e godervi un po’ di silenzio.
IMPRESSIONI
Credo che il modo migliore per accostarsi a Stonehenge e provare a scalfire il suo alone di mistero, sia quello di munirsi di una buona dose di immaginazione: prese cosi’, per quello che sono, le pietre del sito non sono che…pietre.
Ma se proverete ad isolarvi per qualche minuto dalla folla (perche’ vi assicuro che ce ne sara’ parecchia!) e ad immaginare come doveva essere la piana di Salisbury migliaia di anni fa, a immaginarla animata da centinaia di “operai” preistorici, a immaginare come doveva essere la loro vita quotidiana a quei tempi..se riuscirete a lasciar libera l’immaginazione, allora riuscirete a farvi catturare dalla magia di questo luogo strabiliante e dal suo enigmatico fascino primordiale.
E se sarete abbastanza bravi e proverete a tendere bene l’orecchio, forse riuscirete a percepire il bisbiglío dei nostri avi, la voce millenaria della Storia dell’Uomo, sussurrarvi tutti i piu’ intimi segreti delle pietre piu’ emblematiche del mondo.
CONSIGLI PRATICI PER LA VISITA
L’unico modo per accedere al complesso archeologico e’ tramite una prenotazione on-line in anticipo.
Sono disponibili due tipi di biglietto:
- Regular Admission: dalle 9.30 del mattino alle 19.00 circa (l’orario di chiusura varia a seconda della stagione) al costo di 14,50 sterline. Questo tipo di biglietto permette di visitare liberamente l’area attorno alle pietre, senza pero’ alcun accesso all’interno. Guide stampate e audio in italiano sono disponibili ad un piccolo sovraprezzo.
- Stone Circle Access: al di fuori dei normali orari di visita (all’alba e al tramonto) al costo di 30 sterline con accesso completo al circolo. In questo caso non si tratta di visite guidate, quindi non saranno disponibili guide di alcun tipo, ma con il medesimo biglietto avrete diritto ad una Regular Admission durante il giorno.
Prenotare lo Stone Circle Access e’ un’impresa, soprattutto in primavera\estate e in generale nei weekend, quindi consiglio di muoversi almeno due mesi prima della data della vostra visita.
Mentre la Regular Admission si puo’ prenotare in pochi passi (cliccate sul link e seguite le istruzioni), l’altra richiede la compilazione di un modulo da inviare via e-mail assieme al pagamento (per info potete scrivere a questo indirizzo: stonecircleaccess@english-heritage.org.uk).
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